El Baruco, the charm of a kitchen without ties

Gastronomy in rural areas is sustained in Cantabria with projects like this one, El Baruco de Anero, which gives life to the town and generates an activity that goes beyond summer and weekends. A small, old bar, cleverly adapted to the times and with charm, first hosted Alfonso Ruigómez’s restaurant for 11 years – now in Bonobo (Suesa) – and since 2021 it has become the setting for the proposal of a Galician chef who liked Cantabria to stay. Both projects have made Baruco, each with its own style, an interesting reference for those who want to balance a getaway with an interesting culinary proposal.

Cristian Periscal is a native of the Coruña town of Carballo and discovered his vocation when he was already in his thirties. One day, he decided to change direction, travel, learn languages, and toured South America and Southeast Asia. He ended up in Berlin, where he had his first contact with cooking in a Spanish cuisine restaurant and from there he went to Palma de Mallorca, where he spent two years as a cook in a hotel. He then completed a master’s degree at the Basque Culinary Center where he met Nacho del Corral (Daria and La Voladora), and this friendship decided him to move to Cantabria with his family, but not before training with Ferran Adrià and directing the Can kitchen for five years. Dani from Formentera (one Michelin star).

Above, mussels, coconut curry and cauliflower. On the left, Iberian pork brioche and, on the right, creamy red shrimp rice.

Main image - Above, mussels, coconut curry and cauliflower.  On the left, Iberian pork brioche and, on the right, creamy red shrimp rice.

Secondary image 1 - Above, mussels, coconut curry and cauliflower.  On the left, Iberian pork brioche and, on the right, creamy red shrimp rice.

Secondary image 2 - Above, mussels, coconut curry and cauliflower.  On the left, Iberian pork brioche and, on the right, creamy red shrimp rice.

A week before the pandemic he made the move with the idea of ​​getting “something manageable” in Santander, but the prices of the establishments led him to decide on El Baruco, where he develops an unbound, contemporary cuisine that reinvents itself almost daily. and where he formulates proposals with original and fusion touches. The menu changes frequently and the latest addition is the tasting menu, with prices between 40 and 50 euros, depending on the dishes at that time.

For a few months now, Leticia Vila, previously at La Bicicleta, has been accompanying him in this project as head of the room and sommelier.

The letter

Cristian proposes a menu with 15 specialties and three desserts, “because we like to try different things, changing frequently. My idea is that the site is liked and that the client is satisfied. I would like to eat in a place like this. “There is no expensive product here that raises the price, except for sea bass and rice with red shrimp.” These are the keys to the balance of a menu that is complemented by a wine list carefully selected by Leticia and in which there are references that are worthwhile.

If we go into the details of the dishes tried on this occasion, we start with an appetizer of omelette and red tuna; and we continue with a cooked croquette, large, very creamy and with the flavor it should taste like. Brilliant was the cauliflower dish with mussels and a coconut and curry sauce with a spicy touch. Spectacular and recommended is the Iberian pork brioche with avocado and chipotle sauce, as well as the aged beef rib meatball on a cream of celery ball, sauce made from the same meat juice and on top of it a sheet of the tudanca rib itself.

For the rice dish, Periscal achieves a gentle sweetness with the integrated bone marrow, which enhances the red prawns, which are supported by pieces of cachón, the ali oli and the ramallo seaweed.

A skewer hake breaded with gazpachuelo and mushrooms was also tried, although the benchmark of the house is the sea bass fried in chickpea flour and quartered to eat with the hands and play with a couple of sauces.

In the dessert section, the good level is maintained in proposals such as cheesecake with strawberries and tarragon, banoffee (toffee, banana and cocoa) or chocolate and orange ganache.

Address: Barrio la Iglesia. Anero.

Telephone: 613 019 012.

Owner and chef: Christian Periscal.

Opened: June 2021.

Cocina: Javier Domostegui, Ana Pardo and Rubén Mier.

Sala: Leticia Vila and Julián Martínez.

Kitchen style: Contemporary with some fusion touches.

Average price of the letter: Between 35 and 40 euros.

Daily menu: No.

Tasting menu: Between 40 and 50 euros, it changes depending on the dishes that are incorporated each day depending on the market product.

Ability: Some diners for six tables and four seats at the bar.

Terrace: Yes, about 20 seats at eight tables.

Time: From 1:30 p.m. to 4 p.m. and from 8:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Close: Monday and Tuesday.

Bodega: About 50 references in rotation.

Café: Dromedary, with the option of self-made stew.

Parking: Yeah.

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